Here is a fix: Fairchild Industries -847 550 – 9580 ask for ‘Bonnie’ -trust me. Order 8 feet of part # 1181. ( about $25). Take the belt and rip the lower ‘bump’ carefully with a band saw- you need to do this for clearance. Take existing belt molding and with a utility knife cut the TOP of the rubber leanly so that you have a flat surface for the ‘lip’ of the new belt to sit on. Clamp the new belt in position on one end with a c clamp. Get 1/4″ long Pop rivets – make sure they are all aluminum. Measure the rivets diameter and use the right sized drill bit. Drill holes every 5 inches making sure to give enough space for the rivet without hitting the inside edge. As you drill each hole, insert a revit – do not ‘pop’ it yet. When you are done, put a 1/16″ bead of polyurethane adhesive ( home depot) along the old belt molding between the rivet and the 90 degree edge of the old belt molding. Put in the first revit on one edge and clamp. Place the middle revet in and the far end and clamp again with another c clamp. Put in the remaining rivets. If they are not exactly aligned then just re drill carefully. Use a DRILL STOP when you drill or you will see dimples on the molding. When you are done let dry for 24 hours. Now turn the molding around so you can look at there the ugly end of the revits are. If more than 3/16 ths you must remove part of the too long revet ends so the belt can slip over the top of the doors sheet metal. I used a dremel with a 2 ” metal cutoff. Hack saw will work too. Last step – replace the down window antirattle bumper with a new aluminum plate, revet, and again poly a 3/4″ x 2 ” piece of velcro loop on to the aluminum. Your done .