Red Letter Dodge! We asked, you answered, and it looks like the name Red Letter Dodge is here for the long haul, pulling in a whopping 55% of your votes. Thanks to everyone who participated in the poll — and for letting us know the name is rolling along just fine.
The top four runners up:
- Inside Dodge: 22%
- Dodge Defined: 9%
- Dodge Line: 9%
- Other: 5%
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That is probably the best name out of the list. By the way, you had mentioned a couple of weeks ago that they were building some yellow Challengers, however, I have yet to see one. What is the status on the yellow cars? How long a wait do we now expect if we order a vehicle? Thanks, and keep answering our questions!
November 18, 2009 @ 9:52 pm
I like the idea of the new Dodge logo just being the letters like they did in years past. They also had some three pronged symbol that looked like something the Klingons used in Star Trek, however, the letters is clean, simple and direct. The three ovals for Toyota is funky as is the Hundie symbol that looks like a Honda symbol that survived a car crash. At any rate, you are on the right track.
November 21, 2009 @ 2:47 am
Dodge Shadow Belt molding Fix – these are only avialabe for one side and cost $160 apiece.
Here is a fix: Fairchild Industries -847 550 – 9580 ask for ‘Bonnie’ -trust me. Order 8 feet of part # 1181. ( about $25). Take the belt and rip the lower ‘bump’ carefully with a band saw- you need to do this for clearance. Take existing belt molding and with a utility knife cut the TOP of the rubber leanly so that you have a flat surface for the ‘lip’ of the new belt to sit on. Clamp the new belt in position on one end with a c clamp. Get 1/4″ long Pop rivets – make sure they are all aluminum. Measure the rivets diameter and use the right sized drill bit. Drill holes every 5 inches making sure to give enough space for the rivet without hitting the inside edge. As you drill each hole, insert a revit – do not ‘pop’ it yet. When you are done, put a 1/16″ bead of polyurethane adhesive ( home depot) along the old belt molding between the rivet and the 90 degree edge of the old belt molding. Put in the first revit on one edge and clamp. Place the middle revet in and the far end and clamp again with another c clamp. Put in the remaining rivets. If they are not exactly aligned then just re drill carefully. Use a DRILL STOP when you drill or you will see dimples on the molding. When you are done let dry for 24 hours. Now turn the molding around so you can look at there the ugly end of the revits are. If more than 3/16 ths you must remove part of the too long revet ends so the belt can slip over the top of the doors sheet metal. I used a dremel with a 2 ” metal cutoff. Hack saw will work too. Last step – replace the down window antirattle bumper with a new aluminum plate, revet, and again poly a 3/4″ x 2 ” piece of velcro loop on to the aluminum. Your done .
December 2, 2009 @ 4:49 pm